Saturday, February 28, 2009

there's this road, and then there's just lava

If you ever want to be reminded that humans are not in control on this planet, visit an active lava flow. Rick and I drove south from our rental house on the east shore of the Big Island, past Pahoa. First there were big signs that said "Road closed ahead." And then a single lane over the top of an old lava flow that appears to have taken out everything - buildings, trees, entire forests. It's like you were on the surface of another planet, not driving on a Hawaiian island on your vacation.

So we drove over the old lava flow. Twice. Then the road really was closed ahead, and we parked. It was evening, and we took a short hike across a field of lava that looks mostly like hardened waves of rippled cake batter down to the edge of the ocean.

Less than a mile away, Pu'u O'o Crater was flowing lava into the ocean. Steam rose up in an enormous cloud of white. As it got dark, the furnace red glow of the molten lava reflected up into the cloud. The moon was just past new - a Cheshire moon - Venus close by. It's dark quickly. And then there was just the light of lava.

The first spit of rain sent most of the other tourists packing back to their cars. But it wasn't cold and we had our rain gear, so we stayed as long as possible.

Awe is inadequate a word for standing on a mound of hardened lava watching the earth birth new land. Steam and light flared and glowed and flamed and sent sparking blobs up in red-gold flares like primal fireworks. Few other times in my life have I ever been so stunned. It was beyond amazing.

Hawai'i. I'm just happy to be here.
Sherri

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